54 Mint Cucina Romana

April 2024 Benu was fabulous. I had rarely visited a fine dining Asian restaurant but all the food here was genuinely faultless. From a plump sea urchin starter to a delicious fish dish to delicate desserts, the kitchen clearly knows how to create elegant and flavourful dishes. This was one of the best Michelin starred restaurants I've been to. The restaurant is led by Corey Lee, who for a long time was the head chef at Thomas Keller's 3 Michelin-starred restaurant, 'The French Laundry' in Yountville.

This was my fourth visit to Benu, and I felt like the food was the strongest yet. Kudos to Chef Corey Lee and team for continuing to execute at the highest level of fine dining, having maintained three Michelin Stars for a decade. As expected, the service was impeccable. We were warmly welcomed with a glass of sparkling wine, setting a celebratory tone for the evening. Although my girlfriends and I weren’t celebrating anything specific, I would say that any experience at Benu naturally feels like a special occasion! Since my last visit was in 2019, much of the menu was new to me. However, I was delighted to see the familiar opening bite of century quail egg. From there, a parade of small delicacies followed. Highlights included a dry-aged cheese served Korean BBQ-style with a bright, herbaceous perilla leaf wrap. The chilled abalone with winter melon cooked in chicken jelly was a standout in both flavor and texture. Another memorable bite was the crispy frog leg, hidden beneath a bed of decorative Sichuan pepper—eye-catching, packed with flavor, and actually not too spicy. In the past, the xiao long bao course was one of my favorites. However, this version—featuring a pine mushroom filling and a slightly altered wrapper—lacked the satisfying mouthfeel and richness of prior iterations with foie gras or lobster. It was the only dish that felt like a slight misstep in an otherwise stellar menu. The white seafood stew with halibut fin, served with an 8-year-aged doenjang, was a highlight. Accompanying it was a simple yet satisfying golden potato that complemented the stew’s depth of flavor. Another standout was the winter chalbap sticky rice with smoked quail and black truffle. The richness of the sticky rice was further enhanced by an umami-packed side of sticky egg yolk and house XO sauce. Pickled crosnes, a tiny root vegetable, provided a bright and crunchy contrast. The main course featured beautifully poached beef rib, plated tableside for some added flair. It was served with banchan, including lettuce namul, persimmon geotjeori, and a hot mustard sauce that tied it all together. The meal concluded with a few exceptional dessert courses. A shaved, frozen pine needle sikhye was wonderfully refreshing and a strong ending to another incredible Benu experience.

Benu, nestled in the SoMa district is elegant restaurant that folds Korean, Chinese and broader East Asian influences into an American fine dining experience. Dishes here are complex and elegant, taking Asian delicacies and elevating them in new ways. Signature dishes such as the thousand-year-old quail egg (finished in a green ginger and potage) and the supreme xiao long bao soup dumplings are fantastic taking familiar classics and offering surprising and fresh interpretations. Thematically, the dishes here are often clean, herbal and intellectually stimulating. Note that Benu is food-focused and the interior here is minimalist, utilizing pale white tones and almost bare walls. The focus here is singular and placed squarely on the food. Service here is impeccable and always available (it feels as if there is almost one person dedicated to a table), and dishes are presented and removed silently and efficiently. The price point is very high (at around $500/pp) and diners looking for a more traditional fine dining experience (Quince/Crenn) may want to weigh other options. But for those that are curious for a more cerebral engagement, Benu offers one of the most satisfying meals in the Americas and delivers a thoughtful and exacting modern gastronomic experience.